E. Guigal Crozes Hermitage

Boasting scents of cracked pepper, black olives, road tar and blackberries, the 2017 Crozes Hermitage is a notable effort and a solid value. It's medium-bodied, yet on the sturdy side, with muscular tannins tamed by the firm's traditional, lengthy élevage. Finishing long, with hints of charred meat and licorice, this should drink well for 6-7 years, perhaps longer.

Meaty, ferrous and rich. But no pepperiness – something Phillippe Guigal thinks has now gone after climate change. Succulent and juicy with toasty notes on the finish and a baked currant note on the finish. Certainly a powerful wine, but entirely in balance, and that characteristic toasty smoke note on the finish, followed by violet fragrance.

Some good complexity and depth here with a fleshy and ripe, melon, pear and apple core. Some white peaches, too. The palate has layered texture and beautiful, apple and pear focus. Long and even. Drink or hold.